1. Andreas Gurkst, V&R, 2011, Cutting Edge Couture Ready-to-wear, S/S 2010, © Andreas Gursky, Courtesy Sprüth Makers / VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn, 2024
Viktor&Rolf: A confluence of fashion and Art
The ongoing debate about whether fashion can be considered art has found a compelling resolution in the works of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. Since their partnership began in 1992, this Dutch duo has blurred the lines between fashion and art, pushing the boundaries of what clothing can represent.
Their latest exhibition, "Viktor&Rolf. Fashion Statements" at the Kunsthalle Munich, is a testament to their unique position in the world of haute couture and art, offering visitors an immersive experience into their creative universe.
The evolution of Viktor&Rolf: from galleries to global runways
2. Philip Riches, Performance of Sculptures Haute Couture, S/S 2016, © Philip Riches
Viktor&Rolf's journey began in the early 1990s when they first presented their work in gallery settings rather than traditional fashion venues. This choice was not just a strategic move but a declaration of their intent to position themselves as "fashion artists".
Their early installations at Galerie Patricia Dorfmann in Paris, already displayed their conceptual rigor. This installation, which referenced Yves Klein’s iconic works like "Le Vide" (1958) and "Le Saut dans le Vide" (1960), featured garments made from shiny gold-colored polyester suspended from the ceiling, with black clothes arranged on the floor to resemble shadows. This not only evoked the emptiness and materiality explored by Klein but also served as a commentary on the role of fashion in the age of supermodels, whose names were recited by children’s voices in the background.
By the end of the 1990s, Viktor&Rolf had transitioned from being celebrated in art circles to becoming significant figures in the haute couture world. Their breakthrough came with the "Russian Doll collection (Autumn/Winter 1999–2000)", where they dressed model Maggie Rizer in nine layers of garments, each heavier and more ornate than the last.
Conceptual rigour and artistic dialogues
Throughout their career, Viktor&Rolf engaged in a dialogue with the visual arts, drawing on a wide array of influences, from the avant-garde movements of the 20th century to contemporary art. Their "Long Live the Immaterial" (Autumn/Winter 2002–03) collection paid homage to Yves Klein’s "International Klein Blue", using blue-screen fabric to create garments onto which images were projected during the show.
The "Van Gogh Girls" (Spring/Summer 2015) collection marked the beginning of a trilogy that directly referenced iconic figures in art history. The oversized straw hats and floral patterns were a direct nod to Vincent van Gogh’s post-impressionist works. This collection was followed by "Wearable Art" (Autumn/Winter 2015–16) and "Performance of Sculptures" (Spring/Summer 2016), both of which further blurred the lines between fashion and visual art.
Their "Surreal Shoulder" (Spring/Summer 2022) collection drew inspiration from Friedrich Wilhelm Murnau’s expressionist film "Nosferatu" (1922). The dark makeup, elongated fingers, and exaggerated shoulder silhouettes evoked the eerie, gothic atmosphere of the film, demonstrating how Viktor&Rolf use fashion as a medium to explore and reinterpret cultural and historical references.
The role of the artist in Fashion
3. Viktor&Rolf, Zen Garden, Haute Couture, A/W 2013-14, Projection from Rodeo FX, Viktor&Rolf. Fashion Statements, 23.2 - 6.10.2024, © Michael Naumann / Tiefenpixel
Viktor&Rolf’s work often explores the role of the artist as a creator, a theme that has deep roots in art history. Their presence on the catwalk, starting with the "Russian Doll" collection, has become a signature element of their shows, underscoring their active role in the creative process.
This performative aspect was taken to new heights in the "Shalom" (Spring/Summer 2009) collection, where the entire show was pre-recorded and presented online, featuring only one model, Shalom Harlow whose image was multiplied through video manipulation. Viktor&Rolf’s appearance at the end of the video, towering over the miniature versions of Harlow, reinforced their position as creators who manipulate and control the fashion narrative.
In the "Glamour Factory" (Autumn/Winter 2010–11) and "Zen Garden" (Autumn/Winter 2013–14) collections, Viktor&Rolf continued to explore the relationship between the creator and the creation. In "Zen Garden", they meditated on stage, surrounded by models positioned like stones in a Japanese Zen garden, reflecting their desire to escape the fast-paced demands of the fashion industry and return to a more contemplative and deliberate creative process.
The interplay between the inanimate and the animated
A recurring motif in Viktor&Rolf’s work is the interplay between the inanimate and the animated, particularly through the use of sculpture and dolls. The idea of fashion as a form of sculpture was further explored in the collaboration between Viktor&Rolf and photographer Andreas Gursky. Gursky’s works "V&R II" and "V&R III" (2022), inspired by the "Statues" collection, present a hyperreal, almost monumental depiction of Viktor&Rolf’s creations, emphasising the sculptural quality of their designs. Gursky’s meticulous process of combining multiple images to create a seamless composition mirrors Viktor&Rolf’s precision and attention to detail, highlighting the symbiotic relationship between fashion and visual art.
The exhibition "Viktor&Rolf. Fashion Statements" at the Kunsthalle Munich is more than just a retrospective of a distinguished fashion career; it is a profound exploration of the intersections between fashion, art, and society. Viktor&Rolf’s work challenges traditional boundaries and invites us to reconsider the role of fashion in contemporary culture. By drawing on a rich tapestry of artistic references and employing a conceptual approach to design, they have created a body of work that transcends the ephemeral nature of fashion and enters the realm of timeless art.
As visitors navigate the thematic galleries of the exhibition, they are not merely spectators of beautiful garments but participants in a dialogue about the very nature of creativity. Viktor&Rolf’s insistence that fashion can be both art and attire is evident in every piece, every collection, and every performance they have staged over the past three decades. In a world where the line between art and fashion is often blurred, Viktor&Rolf stand at the forefront, demonstrating that these two realms are not mutually exclusive but can coexist in a harmonious and provocative dance.
Informations about the exhibition
Place: Kunsthalle Munich
Date: 23.02.2024 – 06.10.2024
Curators: Thierry-Maxime Loriot
Ticket: Available at the front desk of the museum
Informations about the Kunsthalle Munich
Kunsthalle Munich
Theatinerstrasse 8
D-80333 Munich
Phone: +49 89 22 44 12
Mail: kontakt@kunsthalle-muc.de